A Journey to Borobudur

The Amanjiwo in Yogyakarta is arguably the best and most spiritual of the Aman resorts that overlooks the 9th century Buddhist sanctuary of Borobudur in Java. The hotel arranged for transportation and even provided a lovely continental breakfast at 4 am for would-be pilgrims to start our journey in the dark of night in hopes of catching the sun rise up above the clouds between two mountains. With flashlights in hand, only two of our eight weary travelers would make the climb before dawn. The gods did not disappoint and the weather cooperated. We were rewarded with a spectacular experience with images to remember the time before dawn a thousand years ago. Even Didit our guide agreed.

If you look closely just to the right of the rising sun you will notice the faint outline of Mount Merapi, an active volcano, silhouetted behind the clouds. Coincidentally, the NYT Travel section published a piece about active volcanoes in Java the week before we arrived:

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/18/travel/18Explorer.html?_r=1


Before dusk the previous day, our van made our way to a crowded Borobudur. a major tourist attraction. Didit explained the nine levels of the monument and their significance. In awe of the ancient wonder, all that is remembered is that we begin by overcoming desire at the bottom in order to reach perfection that is enlightenment at the top. Along the way, the stone walls depict stories of the life of Buddha in low relief and hundreds of smaller stupas. The Temple had been restored from natural and mad-made destruction. Still there are signs of ruin. By climbing upward clockwise, we keep to our right always facing the center of the Temple. These Stupas (pictured above) at dusk just before sunset are near the top and originally housed stone buddhas of which few are intact. 32 stupas on this level, 24 on the next, and finally 16 before the final stupa at the top. It is a mystery what was contained therein. What is Perfection?


An example of a day in the life of Buddha.

The story goes...









On arrival and after a rest, we replicated the pilgrims's path to Borobudur stopping at Candi Mendut the first of five temples before crossing the river to the next Candi Pawon the place for purification. Thus began our Journey...










Candi Sambisari
On our way to the Prambanan Temple complex early this morning, our final day in Yogyakarta, then to the airport this afternoon bound for Jarkarta, we stopped at an intact temple unearthed by this farmer while plowing his fields. He showed us where he struck the tile on the roof of Sambisari and how the government compensated him for his farm and made him director of this Candi which he proudly oversees. With the proceeds, he was able to make his pilgrimage to Mecca signified by his wearing of a white cap. We are told that there are many more temples underground! Above is the Candi Sambisari as it stands today complete, intact, and patrolled by this farmer/director himself.



Prambanan Temple
The largest Hindu Temple Complex of smaller temples in Southeast Asia built in the 9th century dedicated to Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Protector, and Shiva the Destroyer. One of the main temples was closed when we visited because its foundation was rocked by an earthquake in 2006. Restoration, preservation, and research continue as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.